Sanctuary

This posting has moved, please view it at: http://wildtn.blogspot.com/2013/11/sanctuary.html 

Humble Pie? I'll have a double serving, please!

Some people don't like when they do something and they're corrected later.  Me? Heck, I'll take a second serving!  The best way to learn is if you really listen to advice from experts - from people who know more about something than you.  And I mean experts here.  Not the average guy who thinks he knows more than me simply because he came with a Y chromosome.  Those types can just kiss my tush. The key is listening - with an open mind and a decision to learn rather than defend your actions or knowledge.  It's really one of the best ways to learn.  In my case, I was served a great portion of humble pie surrounding my bear charge.  You remember that one, right?  The momma black bear who went from 3 cubs to 2 and then bolted 50 yards downhill at me and my daughter stopping a few mere feet from us? Yah, good times, eh? HAHA.


So I'm talking to a bear expert - I don't want to use his name because I didn't ask permission, but I promise you he's worked "hand-in-paw" with eastern black bears for many years and is very versed on their behavior and how to work with bear.  I trust his input and don't question it.  He has the knowledge and the experience to prove that I'm merely a toddler in the scope of bear.  That being said, here's the humble pie that is an eye opener for me (and a bit scary in retrospect):

My and Jess's actions were perfect for a solitary bear - usually a male - that is too close for comfort.  On the flip side, for a momma in protection mode (as witnessed initially from the cubs being sent up the tree), my reaction wasn't recommended because momma is thinking one thing: keep the cubs safe.  We posed a threat and his recommended action would have been to speak softly, lower my head, and slowly back off.  I did the opposite of that for the most part, which he noted he was glad ended well instead of the alternative (um, me, too!).  I looked bigger and imposing and made a lot of noise.  Perhaps the fact that we did slowly back off was what kept us safe?  In retrospect - again - I see where this makes sense.  I see where my education on bear behavior wasn't precise - I used generic info and I should have learned more.  ESPECIALLY because I knew the mom and cubs were local to my trail.  I knew it.  And I dropped the educate-myself ball.  Granted, bears aren't my forte but, my motto is always to know what's out there that you COULD encounter and be prepared for any situation.  I slacked, I have been corrected, I have assimilated the info and won't make the same mistake again.  Humble pie is not only delicious, but nutritious.  

So, take this knowledge of how I didn't react in the way I should have and add this to the mix: bluff charges aren't usually 50+ yards.  Apparently they're normally pretty short.  So... wow.  Just keeping that fact in perspective with the other info is really eye-opening.  The only thing that apparently made mine a bluff was that she stopped before barreling into me/us. I did get a compliment though - he said that, under the same circumstances, it was really good that I was able to assess the situation and react... apparently acting in the face of an "oh Sh**!" situation is hard.  It's like muscle memory though... you go over and over it in your head and when it happens it's an instant reaction rather than a conscious digging for information in your head.  Now I'll revamp that info so it's more appropriate and situation-based.

In the end, I'll take the info I was taught and beat it into my head so that - if that situation ever comes up again - I'm better prepared.  Which is likely... after all, hundreds of miles away I encountered a momma and her cub.  Some people may say "yah, but you were in a car that time"... hello... it was a convertible camaro.  ...Geez, I miss that car.  I think I may need to buy one.  I'm digressing, aren't I?

But... let's not forget that I'll REALLY glow in the compliment about reaction time!  See, sometimes humble pie has whipped topping! :)

I Feel a Good Rant Coming On

It's no secret that I want to work with some pretty big creatures with some pretty ferocious teeth and claws.  Everyone knows that.  Meet me once and you'll know that (and that I'm a die-hard Preds fan) within 3 minutes of knowing me.  These are the things that make me tick.  There are a few of us weirdos out there who love things that most people fear.  We want to work with, protect, and be a voice for things that others are afraid will gnaw on their neck.  Or, as Funkdubie eloquently says (and I shall do part of this phonetically):

"People fear being eht."

I get that.  I do.  But here's the thing: most of the people who fear being eaten (or "eht" if you will) don't go anywhere to even warrant that fear.  I get freaking reports all the time of someone terrified a black panther will steal and eat their kid... Sadly, my NORMAL response to that person is, "Wow... you let your 5-year-old go hiking alone, then?"  I realize my sarcasm doesn't often help, but ignorance fueled hysteria isn't helpful in any realm.  I mean, how much BS rolls around the internet about (recent example) the president ordering drone killing of American citizens for stockpiling.  The logical person should automatically raise an eyebrow, shake their head sadly, and just walk away.  Or maybe we should look for an example about news channels who ALWAYS find the extremist views to argue and broadcast.  We fuel that crap! Know why?  Ratings.  We force stations to obtain funding, the more viewers the better the funding (advertisement/commercial spots), so the more sensational and amazing the news, the better the profit margins.  

It's the same easy-access news and blatant ignorance that hurts apex predators.  Only in this case we've got another couple issues to face.

On top of the ignorance fuel, we have 

• genetic fear (fight or flight, anyone?) for being 'eht', 
• eons of being told about the "big bad wolf" and other 'monsters' out to steal our children and our lives, and 
• (once again) the immediacy combined with a 'lack of legit info with more focus on the hysterics to spur the general public' "news".

If you thought that was my rant, I'm afraid to admit you're mistaken, cuz the rant is coming now.  Ready? 

I want to work with these animals in their environment to learn more about how they interact with and impact the world that we live in (and for anyone shallow enough to think they don't - please don't waste your breath or keystrokes until you've educated yourself on the issues of trophic cascading).  Ok... so that being said, there's a better than average chance that I - being an avid outdoorsman and wanting to work in the wild to boot - could actually die from an interaction with an apex predator.  Let me be very clear in my next sentence: 

IF THAT HAPPENS, IT IS BECAUSE I AM IN THAT ANIMAL'S HOME AND THE ANIMAL IS DOING WHAT IT WAS CREATED TO DO AND WHILE I HOPE IT DOESN'T HAPPEN, I AM OKAY WITH IT.  

It's quite simple.  Animals are going to act like animals.  I go into their realm.  I have a benefit a lot don't wherein I actually go educated on various things AND prepared with - example - bear spray. I also take precautions.  I don't hike alone near dawn or dusk or at night... I ensure my backpack covers my back and the back of my neck.  I (again) carry a can of bear spray that sorta looks like a fire extinguisher.  I learn when to do certain things and when not to.  I use a bear can and put it far enough away for it to be effective.  I don't keep food in my tent or hammock.  At times, I'm armed (though the bear spray is likely going to be a lot better defense).  If I'm not in a national park, I have my very large dog.  I don't hike in absolute silence.  These are VERY simple things that I do to keep both myself and the wildlife safe.

Here's the heart of the rant: 

WHERE IS THE SENSE OF PERSONAL ACCOUNTABILITY IF YOU'RE NOT DOING EVERYTHING YOU CAN TO KEEP YOURSELF SAFE AND YOU BECOME A 'VICTIM'?  This is the biggest rub I have these days.  "mountain biker attacked by cougar" or "hiker mauled  by grizzly".   It's all over the news within moments.  Please don't misunderstand my frustration as a lack of empathy for the person's family - but if you aren't educated on HOW TO BE IN THE OUTDOORS then DON'T BE IN THE FREAKING OUTDOORS.  Not only could YOU get yourself killed, you could get an animal killed for being - ironically - an animal! Is that too much to ask?  I mean, you're not going to go jump out of a plane without a parachute and blame the pilot, are you?  You're not going to go eat a bowl full of hemlock, and then blame the plant for getting violently ill, right?  IGNORANCE IS NOT A DEFENSE.  If you're going into the wild and you're doing everything RIGHT then you knew what you were getting into and - while it may suck - you knew there was a chance of exactly that happening.  

To allude to a recent headline... if I go into a cage with a tiger and I get killed... who is to blame?  I mean, the tiger lacks thumbs - it couldn't work the key or the gate latch... so if I did that and I died, I really hope you all would sit around and tell your friends how I had it coming because I did something I knew better than to do.  Oh - and I wish they wouldn't shoot said tiger to get my body from it - it could be tranq'd...  ((by the way - I know facts come out AFTER things happen... but my rant surrounds the initial "truth" they "report"...which always garners more time than corrections.)) 

These are WILD animals, people.  In a cage or not - they are all inherently still wild.  They are prone to doing what wild animals do.  They don't have eons of domestication bred into them.  They are NOT fuzzy little kitties and puppies and teddy bears. They are predatory mammals that can and will kill you if they feel they need to.  That doesn't mean the average guy or gal is in danger.  That doesn't mean stay out of the woods (unless you're just wanting to leave them to me - which I'm way cool with)... 

...what it means is be smart about the decisions you make, do what you can to protect yourself and the nature you're trying to be a "part of", and realize the very real consequences.  

But - just for the record - you're far more likely to break a leg on a trail than be 'eht'.  Oh wait - that's why you wear boots or good shoes, right?  To keep yourself safe from a potential.  Now take that mentality and increase it.

So, consider that the end of my sermon and I'll STFU the rest of the day.  :)

Surviving My First Bear Charge

It was a perfect day.  The sky was blue and pocked with plump, lazy stratus clouds.  It was early, so the temperature was still tolerable.  It had rained the night before, so the trail was damp and perfect to keep your eyes peeled for tracks.  The damp leaves softened every footfall, so the sounds of the forest were alive.  We hiked the incline at a casual, deliberate pace.  Today, we had no set destination; we merely looked at what branched off the trail and, though we agreed that we'd take one specific trail if we made it that far, opted to take whatever trail looked the most inviting to us.

A quarter mile passed... half a mile... one mile... the incline leveled substantially.  We neared our first branch and stood for a moment, deliberating on how enticing it may be.  We'd never taken that specific trail, so there was promise of new adventure if we so wished it.  After a few minutes discussion, we decided to keep going and see what the next trail brought.

The main trail crosses over three mountain "streams" but, through the summer (excluding after rain) the creeks are normally barely flowing.  The recent rainfall didn't impact the creeks much, but it did leave potential for tracks.  At every creek, I would pause and inspect the forest floor, looking for tracks of bear, bobcat, deer, boar, and coyote.

We approached the third stream and I meandered over to it.  I heard a rustling in the forest on the hill above me.  My eyes immediately searched for the source of the scratching sounds.

"Jess," I said as I pointed up the hill, "cubs!"  Sure enough, two cubs were scrambling up a tree about 50 yards away.  They were taking it at quite a pace, too.  That, my friends, is NOT a good sign.  Bears climb trees for three reasons:  1) to escape perceived danger, 2) to get to some nuts or fruits, and 3) to rest or sleep.  When hiking, if you see cubs hauling bear tookey up a tree and you don't see momma in the bush, this can be a very bad sign.

"Awe! Yes," Jess replied, "oh look, there's momma!"

"Momma?!" my ears perked up and I leaned left to get a view from Jessica's vantage point.  She wasn't kidding.  We saw momma, NOT scrambling up a tree, and momma quite clearly saw us.  The following portion of the story will take far longer to tell than the encounter itself, but I swear to you, I will not embellish one thing.

Momma bear saw us and charged.  Immediately education and training kicked in; my hands were in the air, arms waving.  It's the equivalent of saying "I'm human" in bear.  She quickly closed the distance to 50 feet.  Jess's arms were in the air now, too.  We yelled 'HEY BEAR' as we waved.  She was charging down hill... this is worse than up hill because she's more inclined to follow through.  Momma bear closed the distance to 25 feet.  My yelling became more aggressive and loud - black bears respond to aggression (whereas a grizzly responds by becoming more aggressive).  She was 20 feet away.  I started snapping my camera with my right hand, aiming at nothing but hoping the flash would help make me look big and scary.  Now she was 15 feet away and I was reaching with my left hand for the bear spray.

Suddenly, she skidded... stopped.  She was somewhere between 10-12 feet away.  Her teeth were bared at us still, but at least she was stopped; behavioral signs indicating it was a bluff charge.  Still waving our arms and yelling at her, I told Jess quickly and quietly to very slowly step back.  We took a large but slow and deliberate step back.  Momma bear stood her ground.

"Back up another step, Jess."  We did.  Again, very slow and deliberate.  We had increased our distance between us and momma bear to about 15 feet.  She didn't realize it, but I was in the exact same mode that she was in: "if you threaten my child, I will attack and hurt you."

It was enough.  She turned and ran back up the hill to her awaiting cubs.  We stood our ground.  She gathered her cubs and they took off in the opposite direction.  Finally - after seconds that seemingly lasted hours - I was able to breathe.

"Jess," I said at last, "do you realize we were just bluff charged by a black bear?!"

Jess and I stood there for another 5 minutes, talking excitedly.  I glanced at the photos on my camera, not spending a lot of time on any as my adrenaline was pumping, and told Jess I didn't think I managed to snag her in any of the photos.  We continued to talk excitedly while we made our way to a backcountry unsanctioned camping area to sit and have a bite to eat.

We continued to talk over some trailmix and jerky and, on a whim, I wanted to look at the photos again.  I was calm now, and I was so very hopeful that I had managed to get even a shadow of her in one of the sure-to-be-out-of-focus pictures.  I hit the display on my camera and, right there she was.

Defensive Momma Black Bear after a bluff charge.  (Nic Pic)

How I missed it before can only be summed up by sheer adrenaline causing brain freeze.  In the photo in front of my eyes was an almost in focus, 10 feet away, teeth bared, pissed off and scared momma black bear.

I say it every time, but this is one of those cases that really brings it home: know everything about EVERYTHING where you plan to be.

Of note, I didn't manage to get a photo of the cubs.  I will report this sow and her cubs to the Cherokee National Forest rangers because this bear has been spotted by the trail 3 times in three weeks; twice by me.  I don't know if they will do what the Smoky's do (block the trail for awhile) because this is a wilderness area, but I should at least let them know that she is very active and consistently near the trail and that she has at least 2 cubs (she had 3 a couple weeks prior, but I can only verify a visualization of 2).

Now, go outside and have fun!

My Bucket List Desinations... it's about the JOURNEY

Everyone has a bucket list... some are experiences, some are destinations, some are skills or accomplishments.  My bucket list (aside from seeing my Preds play in every other team's barn) is made up of journeys in different places.  Most of my places are on the North American continent... which probably makes me a lucky girl.  Here, in no particular order, are my Bucket List Journeys:


Sierra National Forest

Photo belongs to Mike Jones

Who wouldn't want to visit Bull Buck, the second-largest tree on the planet? The Sierra National Forest has enough sequoias to make even giants feel small. Bull Buck, a 2,700-year-old tree, towers over 247 feet and I'm certain it will make me feel like I've tumbled through a rabbit hole into some magickal realm.  Located on the western slope of the Sierra Nevada, this California woodland’s hiking highlights includes John Muir Wilderness, Ansel Adams Wilderness and several others.

Grand Canyon National Park

Photo from LivingWilderness.com

I grew up near the Grand Canyon and can't remember ever actually seeing it.  In my late 20's or early 30's, I remember flying west and the pilot pointed it out in the distance.  The setting sun glowed red and magickal over the earthen rock.  I'm dying to climb down a world famous gorge with a depth of about 6,000 feet (or 1 mile)... and equally dying to climb back UP.  I'm one of those weirdo's who prefers up or level to down. For those with the endurance and will, this hike is bound to be one of the greatest adventures of a lifetime. The government site about Grand Canyon National Park gives lifesaving pointers such as avoid huffing and puffing to ensure your body is getting enough oxygen during that arduous journey.

Yellowstone National Park

From Destination360.com

Yellowstone.  If ever there was a place on earth that was amazing due to geology, this would be it.  Home to one of the world’s super volcanoes (the one they made the TV show about that’s been dormant for about 640,000 years and due to blow it's top), this wilderness safe haven holds so many wonders!  Old Faithful Geyser. Even another active volcano. While the park’s geological attributes really provide no eminent threat, perhaps it does add a hint of danger to the trek while weaving through trails overflowing with the highest concentration of mammals in the lower 48.

from RockyMountainMagazine.com

Glacier National Park

I've been to Glacier but didn't get to hike.  It was October (and I had one, rainy day to get a view of the park).  I remember Logan's Pass (I think?) was closed already.   Glacier National Park looks like the Swiss Alps without having to travel so far. Breath taking views along the Going-to-the-sun-road. Watching the sunrise over the gorgeous mountains. Hiking some of the most beautiful trails in the United States. The best part is the park is hardly ever crowded because it's way up in northern Montana about 45 miles from the Canadian border.  I can't wait to go again, and staying in White Fish, MT was a blast all by itself!  Did I mention I met my first real cowboy in here?  I love this place.

Grand Tetons

Photo from SummitPost.org - Visit them!

I think the Grand Tetons are the most photographed mountains in the US.  There are a magnitude of trails and so many rumored, hidden qualities of the peaks and canyons. One look at Painbrush Canyon and I'm always willing to pack my bags.

Denali National Park

Denali, Care of Alaksa101.com

And then, there's Denali.  Never has a single mountain called to me like Mount McKinley and the Denali Range.  I've loved that mountain since I was a kid and, while I have no plans to summit that beast, I'm sure that one day I will hike it's base and trails.  Snow capped peaks are my very favorite and the amazing spring/summer in Denali is guaranteed to please.  The park is massive, the wildlife is amazing, the rangers are helpful (they provide bear canisters and teach you want to do during bear encounters) and the views are nothing short of enchanting.  

Day Trips Don't Get Much Better

Snow Falls, Laurel Snow Pocket, Dayton, TN

We started our day on time, leaving the house at 8 a.m.  I had told my dog, LeiLui, for two days that she was grounded and not going.  As we were walking out the door, she gave me a pitiful look and I patted her head gently and explained that this was a longer hike and she wasn't fit enough to handle it.  I closed the door, walked to the car, and backed out of the driveway.  As I passed the front of my house, there Lui was; framed in the door with the most deseperate 'don't leave me!' look on her face.  I turned around in the next driveway and explained to Jess that I was taking Lui, even if it meant carrying her again.  Lui was so spastic when I came to the door (she knew she had won!) and she bolted to the car.  THEN, again, we were off.

Let me tell you a smidgen of history about where we went today.  When you pull into the trailhead at Laurel Snow Pocket Wilderness, you are immediately immersed in history.  When you park the car, a quick scan around the parking lot and you'll notice the chunks of coal and pig iron.  Along the first mile of the trail you'll pass one of the abandoned coal mine shafts, dinky lines (smaller rail lines that hauled the coal carts), the old water main that ran from the Old Dayton Reservoir to downtown Dayton, and of course tons and tons of crafted rock with a lot of it still standing.  I've always said, one day I intend to just explore these areas and... if I'm feeling especially stupid, maybe take a look in that mine shaft.  (Author's note: only stupidity would pressure me into the mine shaft... it's no secret that old mines are notorious for cave-ins and toxic [not to mention, explosive!] methane gases).

So, where was I?  Oh yes, HIKING.  Shortly after passing the mine (and, as there was only 2 other cars at the trailhead, unleashing Lui), I saw a person in the distance.  As she turned, I saw a green patch on the arm of her earth-toned shirt.  It was a forest ranger and here I was, breaking the rules, by not having my Lui on a leash (I know, I'm a rebel).  I quickly leashed Lui and then we made our way to where the ranger was standing.  We had a brief discussion where she complimented Lui's looks and discussed our hike for the day.  Then, again, we were off.  (Yes, I waited till we were off the beaten path before un-tethering Lui).

After the trail splits (right for Laurel, left for Snow), we found that we had to cross the Richland Creek on three 50-foot long metal bridges that were anchored into massive boulders.   I can only imagine how hard those bridges were to get on location and then anchored in place!  Lui, who normally shy's away from these see-through bridges, trekked right on across like it was normal.  From there we followed the creek-line back awhile before an ascent up the mountain.  Nearing the apex of our climb, we passed huge rocks that had fallen as well as the amazing 'shelves' left behind.  Seeing the sheer rock faces that were left and the size of the rocks that had broken off, I couldn't help but marvel at how magnificent this mountain chain (all of the eastern mountain chains, really) must have been in eons past.  Maybe that's one of my draws to this region? For anyone who isn't versed in the geological history of this region (TN/KY/VA) of our continent, it's a very interesting tale full of turbulent destruction, impacts from outer space, and upheaval of young rocks.  I've heard it said that the Appalachian Mountains were once rivals to the Himalayas! That's like 30,000 feet high  -  but 300 million years knocked FOUR MILES off the top of the mountains.  (Author's note: you realize if these estimations are correct that Mt. Mitchell in North Carolina is the tallest mountain it the HISTORY OF THE EARTH??)  I'm digressing again, aren't I?  Sorry.  HIKING:

As we reached the summit and traveled along it for awhile, I noticed a rock outcropping that afforded a great view of the adjacent mountain as well as a glimpse of the Tennessee River.  I had asked Jess to keep Lui on the trail while I ventured over in an effort to get a photo with the little "junky" camera we bought for hiking.  Of note, that camera hates me so no pictures that *I* took will be posted from it (my phone's are fine).  After attempting to get a photo of the view, my attention was drawn to the ground to my left where a relatively fresh snake skin (from a relatively large snake) was laying.  I hollered at Jess that I would bring it over and was certain it was a timber rattlesnake's skin.  We "ooh ahh'd" at the skin and then I placed it back on the ground (Leave No Trace!) and we ventured on.

LeiLui enjoying a rest overlooking
Snow Falls on Morgan's Creek.

Around 2 miles later we reached Morgan's Creek and Snow Falls.  The view of Snow Falls, while it can be seen during the hike it, is most easily enjoyed after crossing Morgan's creek and sitting atop the falls.  If the rainfall hasn't been too tough the creek crossing sounds harder than it is.  The outcrop is very rocky but the far side of the creek offers a view of the top of the falls as well as shade and very comfortable seating - hard to find in the wild!  Jess, Lui, and I sat here for a good 45 minutes and enjoyed a delicious lunch while contemplating where we would pitch our tents when we came back for an overnighter.  After our leisurely lunch, we packed up everything and were back on the trail headed home.

On the way back, I started thinking...

"What is the daily range of a timber rattlesnake?"


"It was overcast on the trip up, but now it's sunny... and that bluff sure did provide a good basking spot... something she'd like if she was pregnant."


"How old was that skin?  It was damp (coulda been rain?), pliant and still had great color... I'd bet it wasn't more than a few hours old at most unless it was damp from rain."

"I WONDER IF THE SNAKE IS THERE?" 

So, I kept my eyes peeled for the shed skin during our trek out.  We came upon it and I ran my above questions by Jess.  She said she didn't know about the daily range and that we should read up on it.  I asked her to get my camera and keep my dog on the trail while I 'took a quick look'.

I walked through the forest to the bluff.

I stepped up onto the outcropping and walked to the edge.

I looked in the sun-riddled spots... no snake.

I was just about to give up and turn around when I had a thought that I'd look where the skin had been shed.

BAM!

There she was!  

Timber Rattlesnake photo'd by Nicotye

A gorgeous, fresh-scaled, 3-foot long and THICK timber rattlesnake coiled up and resting not 6 inches from where I had reached to grab an end of her skin.  Realizing that I was only about 12 inches above and behind her (and more than 2-3 hours from being off the trail and near medical facilities), I slowly stretched out my arm (after yelling a few cuss words in my excitement at finding her) and snapped a photo.  Finding the gorgeous timber rattler was enough to keep Jess and I engaged in excited babble almost the entire trip back (admittedly, we picked on Lui that bigfoot offspring [i.e. littlefeets] had a taste for canine and she needed to keep up).

Of note, we also saw a long, slender black rat snake basking in the sun about 3 miles later.

When we got back to the trailhead, the ranger we had encountered (Diane) on our trip in was still there.  We spoke to her about a spade-toed toad that she had to show us as well as a HUGE orange moth that was laying eggs in a jar she had for display.  Somehow her career was brought up and she told me she was a herpatologist by education and I went into my tale of the rattlesnake.  She commended me on leaving the shed skin behind,  complimented my phone's photo, and asked me if I was a biologist. I wish!  We spoke about a few other things and I really, REALLY enjoyed talking to her.  We said our goodbyes after I nabbed her email address (promising the photo of the timber rattler) then Jess and I had to hit the road.

After coming home, I admit, I told Funkdubie that I was leaving him for Diane the Forest Ranger.  (hahaha)

Wildlife seen: Timber rattlesnake, black rat snake, corn snake, a few dozen young frogs/toads.


Trail length: 10.36 miles round trip


Trail difficulty: 7.5 of 10

Great hike - now go outside and enjoy some nature!

Vertical profile shows the elevation gain at 1,284 feet.
At 4.7 miles, you have made it to Morgan's Creek.
At 5.18 miles, you have made it around the trail and over the creek
to Snow Falls.